108: Sakamoto Ryōma-zo in Tachiaigawa 立会川の坂本龍馬像

⚔️ Sakamoto Ryōma Statue – A Young Samurai at the Crossroads

Sakamoto Ryōma (坂本龍馬) is one of modern Japan’s most admired historical figures — a visionary who helped dismantle the Tokugawa shogunate and pave the way for the Meiji Restoration. But here in Shinagawa’s Tachiaigawa district, you won’t find a statue of Ryōma brandishing a sword or striding forward in boots. Instead, you’ll find a quietly reflective young man in straw sandals, standing still at the edge of change.

The statue, erected in 2010, portrays Ryōma at around twenty years old, before he became famous. At that time, he was posted to Shinagawa as part of Japan’s coastal defense network — a junior samurai from the Tosa domain, far from home and not yet certain of his path. This moment in Ryōma’s life rarely appears in dramatizations or textbooks, but it marked the beginning of a journey that would reshape the nation.

By choosing to honour Ryōma’s youth rather than his legacy, this statue invites visitors to connect with something more intimate: the feeling of standing at a crossroads, not knowing what comes next. Surrounded by urban calm, near Tachiaigawa Station, this modest park offers a place to pause — and to imagine the young samurai who once looked out from here toward a very different Japan.

👦 Early Life and Samurai Training

Sakamoto Ryōma was not born into greatness. His journey began in the Tosa domain on Shikoku Island, far from the centres of power in Kyoto and Edo. Born in 1836 to a low-ranking samurai family, Ryōma came of age during a time of growing tension — when foreign ships loomed off Japan’s coasts and the rigid Tokugawa order showed signs of strain. His early years shaped not only his character, but also his sympathy for outsiders and his eventual break from convention.

Ryōma’s Childhood in Tosa

Ryōma was born in Kōchi, the castle town of Tosa, to a samurai family of relatively humble means. Although they had samurai status, the Sakamoto family were not of the elite warrior class, but rather merchants who had purchased their rank — a social distinction that lingered in the strict class hierarchy of the time. This outsider status would shape Ryōma’s worldview, instilling in him a lifelong resentment of social injustice and exclusion.

As a child, Ryōma was known to be timid and prone to crying, earning little admiration from his peers. But his family recognized his potential and encouraged him to study swordsmanship — a path that offered both discipline and mobility within samurai society. In 1853, at the age of 17, he was sent to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) to train at the renowned Shijikan fencing school, operated by the Hokushin Ittō-ryū school of swordsmanship. There, away from the rigid world of Tosa, Ryōma began to grow in confidence and skill.

It was also during this period that Japan faced increasing pressure from the West. The arrival of Commodore Perry’s Black Ships in 1853 marked a national crisis — and young Ryōma, like many of his generation, began to question the future of the shogunate. While still a loyalist to Tosa at this stage, Ryōma was absorbing new ideas about loyalty, courage, and what it meant to defend one’s country. The seeds of transformation had been planted.

⚔ The Samurai at the Crossroads: Ryōma in Shinagawa

By the mid-1850s, Sakamoto Ryōma had completed his sword training in Edo and returned to service under the Tosa domain. His next posting would bring him back to the capital — not as a student, but as a coastal guard. At this time, foreign ships were entering Japanese waters with increasing frequency, and the Tokugawa government had ordered the construction of defensive batteries in Edo Bay. One of the key locations in this network was Shinagawa, including the area we now know as Tachiaigawa.

Ryōma’s role here was part of a larger national effort to guard Japan’s shores. Still a junior samurai, he was assigned to a unit that monitored coastal activity and stood ready to repel foreign incursions. While records do not describe the daily routine in detail, it is clear that these guard posts were both tense and monotonous — hours of waiting punctuated by drills and uncertainty. For a young man of Ryōma’s temperament, this period may have been as reflective as it was formative.

From Shinagawa’s shoreline, Ryōma would have looked out over the waters of Edo Bay, knowing that change was coming. The Perry Expedition had already arrived, treaties were being signed under pressure, and discontent was spreading among the domains. Though still loyal to his lord in Tosa, Ryōma was beginning to question the old order. This quiet post in Tachiaigawa placed him at the very edge of that historic shift — not yet a revolutionary, but no longer just a provincial samurai.

That is why this statue, located near his former posting ground, matters. It captures a moment before action, before alliances, before fame. It reminds us that revolutions begin not in glory, but in stillness — in moments when young men are asked to stand, watch, and think. Here, in Shinagawa, Ryōma stood on the threshold of history.

🌊 A Nation in Turmoil: Ryōma’s Role in the Bakumatsu

The late Edo period — known as the Bakumatsu (幕末), or “end of the shogunate” — was a time of deep national crisis. After more than two centuries of isolation, Japan was being forced to open its ports to foreign powers. The arrival of Commodore Perry’s Black Ships in 1853 shocked the nation and exposed the weakness of the Tokugawa government. In domains across Japan, discontent simmered. For young samurai like Sakamoto Ryōma, the old world no longer seemed tenable — but the path forward was anything but clear.

At first, Ryōma believed in defending Japan by strengthening it through traditional samurai means — improving martial skill and remaining loyal to his domain. But over time, he began to see the limitations of the feudal system itself. Influenced by teachers, travelers, and emerging reformers, Ryōma came to believe that Japan’s survival would depend not on isolation, but on unification and openness. This shift in thinking marked the beginning of his break from Tosa and the Tokugawa regime.

By the early 1860s, Ryōma had left his domain and become what was known as a rōnin — a masterless samurai. But this was no aimless wandering. He began to act as a secret intermediary between powerful reformist domains like Satsuma and Chōshū, who shared a common goal: to overthrow the Tokugawa shogunate and build a new political order. Ryōma’s bold diplomacy and charismatic independence made him both influential and dangerous in equal measure.

It was during this turbulent time that Ryōma emerged not only as a political activist, but also as a thinker. He advocated for ideas far ahead of his time: a representative national assembly, a modern navy, equal rights, and economic openness. Though never a soldier in a traditional sense, Ryōma was at the centre of Japan’s political transformation — a bridge between old and new, shaped by the storms of the Bakumatsu.

🏯 The Meiji Restoration and Ryōma’s Legacy

The Meiji Restoration of 1868 marked the end of Japan’s feudal era and the beginning of a new modern state. While many figures contributed to this upheaval, few were as pivotal — or as unconventional — as Sakamoto Ryōma. Working behind the scenes, Ryōma used his freedom as a rōnin to broker political alliances, challenge existing hierarchies, and imagine a nation no longer ruled by hereditary privilege.

Perhaps his most lasting achievement was helping to mediate the alliance between the powerful and previously hostile Satsuma and Chōshū domains. This fragile coalition proved to be the key force in overthrowing the Tokugawa shogunate. Ryōma’s diplomacy, conducted with remarkable discretion and independence, enabled these rivals to unite around a shared goal — to restore imperial rule and modernise Japan before foreign powers could dictate the terms.

Ryōma also put forward one of the earliest blueprints for a modern Japanese government. His “Eight-Point Plan” (船中八策, Senchū Hassaku), written in 1867, proposed progressive reforms: the creation of a representative national assembly chosen by merit or consultation rather than birthright, equality before the law, a standing army, a navy, and the abolition of feudal class distinctions. It also called for the revision of foreign treaties, the establishment of a merit-based bureaucracy, and the adoption of free-market principles. Though Ryōma would not live to see these changes enacted, many of his proposals closely mirrored the policies adopted by the new Meiji government.

In many ways, Ryōma’s legacy lies not in institutional power, but in ideas. He helped Japan move from the age of the sword to the age of the state — not by command, but by persuasion, imagination, and daring. His name remains synonymous with transformation, not because he ruled, but because he believed Japan could remake itself.

🚶‍♂ Sakamoto Ryōma’s Later Years and Tragic Death

By the late 1860s, Sakamoto Ryōma had become one of the most talked-about figures in Japan — not because he held a formal title, but because he was reshaping the country’s future. Now a full-fledged fugutaku — a samurai without allegiance to any one lord — Ryōma travelled between Kyoto, Osaka, and Edo, serving as a mediator, strategist, and messenger during a time when a single misstep could mean death. His vision of a unified Japan, governed by principles rather than privilege, made him a threat to many entrenched interests.

In 1867, just months after submitting his “Eight-Point Plan” to the imperial court, Ryōma was assassinated at the age of 31. The attack occurred at the Omiya Inn in Kyoto, where he had taken shelter with a close associate. Armed men stormed the building and cut him down — his killers never definitively identified, though many believe they were rogue elements opposed to his reforms. His death, like his life, was abrupt and without ceremony. Japan was changing rapidly, and Ryōma had become a symbol of that change — too fast, too independent, too dangerous.

Yet in dying young, Ryōma was spared the compromises of power. He became something rarer than a politician or a warrior — a legend. His letters and ideas continued to circulate, and his reputation grew even after the Meiji Restoration. Writers, reformers, and ordinary citizens began to see in him a uniquely modern hero: someone who imagined a different Japan and was brave enough to chase it, even without an army or a title.

Today, Ryōma’s life is taught in schools, portrayed in dramas, and honoured in statues — including the quiet one here in Tachiaigawa. His path was not paved by certainty or strength alone, but by courage, movement, and the refusal to be limited by birth or rank. That’s the story visitors remember, and that’s why he still matters.

🗺 Why This Statue? Ryōma’s Link to Shinagawa

This statue honours Sakamoto Ryōma’s formative years in Shinagawa rather than his later fame. In the mid-1850s, Tachiaigawa and its surroundings were part of Edo’s vital coastal defense system, established by the Tokugawa shogunate to guard against foreign incursions. At about twenty years old, Ryōma served here as a junior samurai from the Tosa domain, stationed at this frontline during one of Japan’s most uncertain eras.

Historical records place the Tosa domain’s lower residence nearby as was the Hamakawa Battery, confirming the area’s strategic importance. For Ryōma, this posting was a pivotal moment—exposing him to the tensions between traditional samurai loyalty and the pressing demands for national reform. It was here that the young samurai began to imagine a Japan beyond its feudal walls and isolationist policies.

By situating the statue in Shinagawa, the community emphasises this less-celebrated but crucial chapter of Ryōma’s life: a period of quiet reflection and growth. The memorial recognises the young man standing watch, unaware that he would one day help reshape the nation’s future.

📷 The Statue: Details and Atmosphere

Unveiled in November 2010 thanks to the Tokyo Keihin Rotary Club, the bronze statue occupies a discreet spot at the edge of Kitahamagawa Children’s Park near the Tachiaigawa River. Its location within the former Tosa domain residence grounds ties directly to Ryōma’s early service at the nearby Hamakawa Battery during Edo Bay’s coastal defense efforts.

In a symbolic gesture linking Ryōma’s birthplace and Tokyo, the statue incorporates bronze fragments from the restored Katsurahama statue in Kōchi. While visually reflecting the modest, youthful image of that original, it is a unique tribute portraying Ryōma at about twenty years old, clad in travel-worn clothes and simple straw sandals—expressing quiet contemplation rather than heroic grandeur.

Positioned at eye level and without a pedestal, the statue invites close engagement. Its setting—a small urban park with trees, benches, the soft hum of passing trains, and children’s play—creates a peaceful, accessible atmosphere. This approachable memorial encourages visitors not only to remember a historical figure but to sense the young man’s humanity and the uncertainties that marked his path toward transformation.

🌟 Ryōma in Popular Culture

More than 150 years after his death, Sakamoto Ryōma remains one of Japan’s most beloved historical figures. His story — a low-ranking samurai who challenged the system and dreamed of a new Japan — continues to resonate across generations. Ryōma has appeared in countless television dramas, novels, manga, and even video games. His likeness, often shown in traditional garb with a hand on his sword or a far-off gaze, is instantly recognisable throughout the country.

One of the most influential portrayals of Ryōma came from author Shiba Ryōtarō, whose epic novel Ryōma ga Yuku (“Ryōma Goes Forth”) helped cement his status as a national hero. Shiba’s work presented Ryōma not just as a revolutionary, but as a witty, humane, and modern-thinking individual. The novel inspired NHK’s long-running Taiga drama series and shaped the way Ryōma is remembered today — as someone who looked ahead while others clung to the past.

From tourism campaigns in his native Kōchi to wax statues in museums, Ryōma’s legacy is part of everyday culture. For many Japanese people, he represents more than history — he represents possibility. His image is often used to encourage critical thinking, social change, and even entrepreneurship. In popular culture, Ryōma is not just the man who helped end the shogunate — he is the ideal of transformation made personal.

🧭 Visitor Information

Address: Kitahamagawa Children’s Park, 2 Chome-25-22 Higashioi, Shinagawa City, Tokyo 140-0011

Opening hours: Open 24 hours

Admission: Free

🧭 Where is it?

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latitude longitude35.5979131, 139.7385119
Nearest station(s)Tachiaigawa Station (Keikyū Main Line)
Nearest public conveniencesLocal convenience stores or nearby station

Show me a sign.

108	Sakamoto Ryōma zo  in Tachiaigawa	立会川の坂本龍馬像
sign

Right in front of the statue.

Withervee says…

If you were not paying attention you would miss it. There are a couple of signs, in Japanese, indicating that it’s a statue of somebody.

Site Character

  • Lifestyle 生活 (Seikatsu): ❌
  • Historical Significance 歴史 (Rekishi): ✔️
  • Atmosphere/Natural Features 風土 (Fūdo): ✔️

Who in their right mind would vote for this?

  • History nerds
  • Samurai lovers
  • Introverts
  • Philosophers
  • Fervent patriots

Further reading

Sakamoto Ryōma on Wikipedia

While you’re there…

Take a detour and check out the nearby Hamakawa battery (not a spot) on the way to Shinagawa Hanakaidō for a quiet end to your Ryōma-inspired wander.

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